Frequently Asked Questions

Locksmith FAQ — 100+ Questions Answered

We’ve put together every question we get asked, week in week out — across costs, insurance, lockouts, moving house, uPVC and timber doors, smart locks, keys, commercial work and what makes our family-run Norfolk locksmith business different. If you can’t find an answer here, ring us on 07846 643176 and we’ll go through it.

Costs & quotes

How much does a locksmith cost?

It depends on the lock type, the job, the time of day, and how far we have to travel. We don’t have a flat-rate price list because no two callouts are identical. What we will always do is give you a clear price on the phone (or, where the job needs eyes-on, on the doorstep before we start), and stick to it.

Why don’t locksmiths publish prices?

We do! Of course there are many types of locks and manufacturers. We publish the basics with a promise to keep you informed and give you choices as to how to proceed should the costs be more than we originally thought.

Do you charge a callout fee?

No separate callout fee — the price we quote is the all-in price for the visit and the work. If a job genuinely turns out to be much bigger than expected once we arrive, we’ll talk it through before doing any of the extra work.

Do you charge more at night or weekends?

Some jobs do attract an out-of-hours rate, particularly between roughly 7pm and 7am or on bank holidays. We’ll tell you on the call whether your job is in the standard or out-of-hours bracket — never spring it on you afterwards.

Do I pay extra for emergency callouts?

An emergency lockout outside normal hours typically costs more than the same job in the middle of a weekday — that’s standard across the trade. We’ll always say what the price will be before we set off.

Will you give me a quote over the phone?

For routine jobs — lock change like-for-like, key cutting, anti-snap cylinder upgrade — yes. For jobs where we genuinely can’t see what we’re dealing with (safe openings, multipoint gearbox failures, fire-damaged doors), we’ll give you a clear minimum and a likely range, then confirm exact price on arrival before starting.

Are there any hidden extras?

No. If the parts cost is part of the job, it’s in the quote. If you’d prefer us to fit a higher-spec lock than we’d normally include, we’ll show you the price for that lock separately and let you decide.

Do you take card payments?

Yes — card payment on the doorstep is straightforward. Bank transfer also fine for bigger commercial jobs. Cash is fine if that’s what you’ve got.

Will I get a receipt?

Yes — a written receipt at the end with our details, the work done and the parts fitted, or an electronic invoice if you require.

Do you offer free quotes?

For planned work where we visit, look at the door and put a written estimate together — yes, no charge for the visit, no obligation. For emergency callouts, the visit is the job and pricing starts the moment we’re called out.

Insurance & British Standards

What is BS3621?

BS3621 is the British Standard for thief-resistant single-point locks operated by a key from both sides — in practice, the five-lever mortice deadlock that home insurers ask for on timber final-exit doors. Look for the British Standard kitemark stamped on the lock’s forend.

What is BS8621?

BS8621 is the British Standard for thief-resistant locks operated by a key from outside and a thumbturn from inside — so the door can be opened without a key from the inside in an emergency. Used on fire-escape doors, flats and HMOs.

What is TS 007?

TS 007 is the standard for euro-profile cylinders used on uPVC and composite doors. It rates cylinders 1-star, 2-star or 3-star. A 3-star cylinder is independently tested to resist all the common attacks — snapping, picking, drilling, bumping. Insurers generally want either 3-star on its own, or 1-star cylinder combined with 2-star security handles.

What is SS 312 Diamond?

SS 312 Diamond is the Sold Secure Diamond rating for euro cylinders — an alternative to TS 007 3-star. Most insurers accept either. The brands you’ll see most: Ultion, Avocet ABS Diamond, Brisant Secure.

Does AXA require BS3621?

AXA’s standard home policy wording on timber doors specifies a “five-lever mortice deadlock conforming to BS3621” or equivalent. Always check your actual schedule rather than relying on the general line — wording varies by policy version.

Does Aviva require BS3621?

Aviva’s mainstream home insurance specifies BS3621 or equivalent on timber final-exit doors. Some policies also specify TS 007 3-star or SS 312 Diamond on uPVC. Again, check your schedule.

Does Direct Line require anti-snap cylinders?

Direct Line’s standard policy on uPVC doors typically asks for “an anti-snap cylinder to TS 007 3-star or SS 312 Diamond” or equivalent. The exact wording is in your schedule.

What if my lock doesn’t meet the policy spec?

You can usually upgrade ahead of any claim and the policy is then compliant. If a claim arises before the upgrade, the insurer has grounds to dispute. Upgrading is straightforward and cheaper than fighting a refused claim.

Will fitting a British Standard lock reduce my premium?

Sometimes a small reduction. The bigger value is making sure a future claim isn’t disputed on lock grounds.

Does my insurer need to be told when I change locks?

Generally no — provided the new locks meet the policy spec. Keep the receipt and the lock packaging in case they ask later.

Are smart locks insurance-approved?

Some are. Yale Conexis L2 and similar models can meet BS3621 standards when fitted as part of a system that includes a Standard-marked cylinder or backup. We’d advise against a smart lock being the only lock on a final-exit door — fit it alongside a kitemarked mechanical lock so you’re never reliant on batteries or wireless.

What ratings should my padlocks have?

For storage of any value — sheds, garages, gates, side returns — look for Sold Secure rating. Sold Secure Bronze for basic deterrent, Silver for medium-risk, Gold and Diamond for high-value content. Insurers often specify Sold Secure Gold or higher for shed contents valued above a threshold in the policy wording.

Emergency lockouts

What’s a “non-destructive entry”?

Opening the door without damaging the lock — by picking, bypassing or manipulating the existing mechanism. It’s how we like to start every lockout. If non-destructive entry isn’t possible (some modern high-security cylinders, certain damaged locks), we’ll talk through the next steps before doing anything destructive.

Will you break my lock to get me in?

Not as a first resort. Most domestic locks open non-destructively in our hands. Where a lock has to be sacrificed — typically an anti-snap cylinder doing its job after a previous break-in attempt, or a damaged multipoint — we’ll explain why before doing it.

What ID will you ask me for?

Photo ID matching the address (driving licence, passport with proof of address, recent utility bill). If you’re locked out without ID, we’ll work through alternative verification — a neighbour confirming, a phone bill showing the address, a Land Registry check. We won’t open the door of a property you can’t show you have a right to enter.

What ID should you ask me for?

Ours, on arrival. Photo ID, business card with our number. Ask. We’d rather you took 30 seconds to check than let someone in unsure.

How fast can you usually get there?

Depends where you are. Holt, Aylsham, Cromer, Sheringham and Fakenham are typically within 25 minutes. Norwich 35-45. King’s Lynn, Wymondham and Yarmouth 50-60. Diss typically over an hour. Times are typical, not guarantees. This is just travel time. If we are already on a job, then the time taken to finish that has to be considered.

What if a stranger knocks at my door claiming to be a locksmith?

Door scams using fake locksmith pretexts do happen. If anyone turns up unannounced claiming a callout, ask through a chained door for the company name and a phone number, ring it independently (not a number they hand you), and verify with the dispatcher. If they pressure you to open up — that’s a red flag, send them away.

I’m locked out and don’t know if it’s safe to wait outside. What should I do?

If you’re vulnerable, cold, with a young child, or in any way unsafe — go to a neighbour, ring a friend, or sit in a nearby pub or shop. Tell us when you call and we’ll get to you as fast as we can.

Can you let me in if I’ve forgotten the code on a keypad door?

Often yes — many keypad locks have a key override or a reset procedure. Bring any documentation you’ve got and we’ll work through it.

What if my key works but the door won’t open?

Usually a multipoint gearbox issue on uPVC, or a misaligned strike on a timber door. We diagnose and either repair or replace the gearbox / re-align the keep.

What if my key snaps inside the lock during the lockout?

Stop. Don’t push it further. Don’t try pliers. Call us and we’ll extract on arrival. See our snapped key extraction page for the detail.

Can you let me into a property I rent?

Yes, with photo ID matching the address. If we can verify quickly, we proceed. We may want a separate confirmation if anything looks unusual.

Will you let me into someone else’s property?

Only with very clear evidence of permission and a sensible reason — for example, a neighbour with a pre-arranged key-holding arrangement, a son or daughter with documented power of attorney, an executor with grant of probate. We won’t let strangers into a property on a phone-call claim alone.

Moving house & changing locks

Should I change the locks when I move in?

Yes — almost always. You don’t know how many keys are in circulation. Previous owners, builders, cleaners, estate agents, neighbours, family members. A full lock change at move-in is one of the cheapest peace-of-mind investments going.

Do I need to change every lock?

External final-exit doors at minimum. Side returns, French doors and conservatory doors if they’re external. Garage internal door if it links to the house. Internal locks — typically not, unless there’s a specific concern.

What if the locks are fairly new?

If they’re recent and you trust the chain of custody (you’ve spoken to the previous owner and you’re satisfied). We can talk it through.

Can you change all the locks in one visit?

Yes — a typical house with three external doors usually takes us 60-90 minutes once we’re on site, depending on the door types.

Should the new locks match my old keys?

Almost never a good idea — defeats the point of changing them.

Can I have one key that opens everything?

Yes — keyed-alike systems where front, back and side doors all open with the same key are straightforward. Saves carrying a clump of keys. Means losing one key means re-keying everything though, so weigh it up.

What about the garage and shed?

Worth considering, especially if the previous owners might still have keys. Padlocks are easy and cheap to replace.

Do you offer “vacant possession” lock changes for solicitors / estate agents?

Yes — we work with several agents around Norfolk on completion-day lock changes. Quick, documented, all keys handed over to the new owner.

Can you do the lock change before completion?

Only with the seller’s permission — they still own the property. On completion day itself, fine.

What documentation should I keep after a lock change?

The receipt with the lock brand, model and any British Standard markings. Photograph the new locks installed. Worth doing for insurance purposes.

uPVC & composite doors

What is lock snapping?

A forced-entry method used on uPVC and composite doors — the attacker grips the protruding part of the euro cylinder with mole grips and snaps it in half, then operates the cam to open the door. Defeated by an anti-snap cylinder (TS 007 3-star or SS 312 Diamond), which has a sacrificial front section.

What is anti-snap?

A euro-profile cylinder designed so that the front breaks off cleanly under attack, leaving the working part of the lock intact and inaccessible. The sacrificial section makes snapping useless as an entry method.

What’s the best anti-snap cylinder?

The Ultion (Brisant Secure) and the Avocet ABS Diamond are the two most-recommended. Both carry SS 312 Diamond and TS 007 3-star. The Ultion has a unique lockdown mode that triggers on snap attempts. The Avocet has tight tolerances and good after-sales service. Both are excellent.

What does it mean if I have to “lift the handle and turn the key”?

That’s normal for uPVC and composite doors — lifting the handle engages the multipoint locking hooks, and turning the key locks everything in place. If you have to lift very hard or use force, the door is dropping out of alignment and needs adjusting before the gearbox fails.

The handle won’t lift — what’s wrong?

Usually the door has dropped on its hinges and the hooks aren’t lining up with the keep. Sometimes the gearbox is failing internally. We diagnose on the visit — sometimes a hinge adjustment is enough, sometimes a gearbox replacement is needed.

What is a multipoint gearbox?

The mechanism inside a uPVC or composite door that operates all the locking hooks and rollers along the door edge from a single key turn. When it fails, the door won’t lock or unlock. Replacement is a standard job — we carry common models.

How do I know if my gearbox is failing?

The handle is getting stiffer to lift, the key is getting harder to turn, or you have to hold the door at a certain angle to get it to lock. These are all early signs. Don’t wait until it actually fails — the failure mode is often “door locked shut with you on the wrong side”.

Can you replace just the cylinder, or do I need the whole gearbox?

Often just the cylinder — that’s the part you can see and grip with snap-attack tools. The gearbox is separate. Replacing the cylinder is a quick job that brings the door up to insurance spec.

How long do anti-snap cylinders last?

15-20 years if you don’t have a major incident. Less if the door is heavily used or exposed to weather.

Will my keys work in a new cylinder?

You’ll get new keys with the new cylinder. If you’ve got several doors and want them all on one key, ask us about keyed-alike when we quote.

Does fitting an anti-snap cylinder require a full lock change?

No — the cylinder is replaceable on its own without touching the gearbox or the rest of the door. Usually under an hour.

Is composite better than uPVC?

Generally yes for security — composite doors have a solid GRP or timber-core construction that’s much harder to attack than thinner uPVC profiles. But the lock cylinder is still the weak point, so the same anti-snap upgrade applies.

Timber doors

What’s a mortice lock?

A lock fitted into a pocket (the mortice) cut into the edge of the door, with a deadbolt that throws into a keep on the door frame. Standard for timber doors.

What’s the difference between a deadlock and a sashlock?

A deadlock only throws a bolt — it has to be operated with a key both sides. A sashlock has a deadbolt plus a latch (operated by a handle), so the door can close and latch without locking. Sashlocks are common on internal doors and where you want a single lock to do everything.

What’s a nightlatch?

A rim-mounted lock that latches when the door closes — Yale-style. Operated by a key from outside and a knob from inside. Convenient but less secure than a mortice deadlock as the only lock.

What’s the strongest mortice lock?

BS3621 five-lever mortice deadlocks from Chubb (3G114E), ERA Fortress, Yale and Union are all to the same independently-tested standard. Pick on brand support and fit, not headline specs.

Is a five-lever lock the same as BS3621?

No — some five-lever locks are not kitemarked. Look for the British Standard mark on the forend, not just a “5 lever” stamp.

Do I need a mortice lock on my back door?

If it’s a final-exit door (one you’d lock when leaving the house), yes — most insurers require it. If it’s strictly an internal-to-conservatory door, the policy wording may differ.

What’s a Banham?

Banham is a British high-security lock brand — keyed-alike systems, restricted profiles, very secure. Pricey, but excellent if you want one-key convenience across multiple doors with high security.

Can you fit a new mortice lock to an old door?

In most cases, yes. We mortice carefully and the lock sits flush. Where a door is genuinely fragile or of conservation interest, we’ll discuss options.

What about old three-lever locks?

Three-lever locks pre-date BS3621 and don’t meet modern insurance standards. We replace them with five-lever BS3621 deadlocks as a routine upgrade.

Can you key two mortice locks alike?

Some brands offer keyed-alike five-lever locks (Chubb and Union do). Worth specifying at point of order so the levers are cut to match.

Smart locks

Are smart locks safe?

Reputable smart locks (Yale Conexis, Ultion Nuki, August) from established brands are secure when configured correctly. Cheap smart locks from unfamiliar brands often have poor security. Stick with the names you know.

Will you fit a smart lock?

Yes — Yale Conexis L2, Ultion Nuki and similar. We’ll talk through the setup with you and recommend against having it as the only lock on a final-exit door.

Why not the only lock?

Batteries go flat. Wireless signal goes down. Phone updates break apps. Smart locks are a great addition for convenience but a mechanical kitemarked lock alongside means you always have a fallback that doesn’t depend on electronics.

What about door scanners and keyless entry?

Fingerprint and face-ID scanners on residential locks are getting better but still vary widely on reliability — humidity, dirty fingers, low light all cause failure. Same advice: convenience yes, sole lock no.

Can you set up auto-lock on my smart lock?

Yes — most smart locks have auto-lock-after-X-seconds settings. We’ll walk you through them on the visit.

Will my insurance accept a smart lock?

Some will, some won’t — and many require the smart lock to be paired with a kitemarked mechanical lock. Check your schedule. Don’t rip out the BS3621 deadlock to fit a smart lock unless you know your insurer accepts it on its own.

What happens if the wifi goes down?

Yale Conexis and similar still operate locally with the key card or PIN — the wifi is for remote access only. You can still get in.

What about cybersecurity on smart locks?

Use strong, unique passwords. Update the firmware when prompted. Don’t share access codes by SMS or unencrypted email. Disable any “demo” or “guest” codes you set up temporarily.

Keys & restricted profiles

What’s a restricted key system?

A key blank that’s not available off the shelf at kiosks or hardware shops — only the licensed locksmith or manufacturer can cut copies, and only with documented authorisation. Mul-T-Lock, Avocet ABS, Banham and DOM are the main names you’ll see in the UK.

Why use restricted keys?

Two reasons: (1) you control how many keys exist, because no one can just take one to a kiosk and copy it; (2) the cylinders are typically high-security with anti-pick and anti-bump features. Worth it for HMO landlords, commercial premises, or households where key control matters.

Are restricted keys uncopiable?

Not strictly impossible — anyone determined enough can have a blank made — but kiosks and standard key shops can’t do it. The supply chain is documented. For practical purposes, only authorised people get copies.

What’s a kiosk-cut key?

A key copied at a shoe-repair or hardware shop with a standard blank. Fine for everyday spares of standard keys. Not as accurate as a code-cut key — kiosk copies sometimes need a little easing.

What’s a “code-cut” key?

A key cut to a code stamped on the lock or recorded by the manufacturer — not a copy of another key. More accurate than kiosk copies. We can cut to code on most common locks.

Can I get a key cut from a photograph?

Theoretically yes — and that’s exactly why you should never post photos of your keys online. In practice, a clean, well-lit photo of both sides can be reverse-engineered into a working key by someone with the right software and a key-cutting machine. It’s not science fiction.

How many keys should I have cut?

For a single household, three is sensible — one each for the adults, one spare with a trusted neighbour or family member. Avoid hiding spares outside.

Why is my new key not quite working smoothly?

Brand new keys sometimes need a few days of use to bed in, or a touch of dry graphite lubricant. If it’s binding seriously, take it back for a re-cut.

Can a kiosk cut a BS3621 key?

Most modern BS3621 mortice locks use a generic five-lever key that any decent kiosk can copy. The accuracy is the variable — code-cut from us is generally cleaner.

Commercial & landlord

Do you do commercial work?

Yes — shops, restaurants, offices, warehouses, holiday lets, HMOs. We’re insured for commercial work, and we work with letting agents and managing agents around Norfolk.

What’s a master key suite?

A system where one master key opens many doors, while each door also has its own individual key. Useful for landlords (master opens any flat, each tenant has only their own key) and small businesses. We design and supply master key systems.

What’s BS8621 and when do I need it?

BS8621 — key outside, thumbturn inside — is what HMOs, flats and any premises where fire-escape regulations apply typically need. The thumbturn means the door can be opened from inside without a key in an emergency.

What about HMO locks specifically?

HMOs (Houses in Multiple Occupation) need fire-escape-compliant locks on bedroom doors and final-exit doors. BS8621 thumbturn locks on individual bedrooms, robust final-exit locking on the main entrance.

Can you do landlord turnover work?

Yes — lock changes between tenancies. Quick, documented, with new keys handed to the new tenant and any spares to the landlord.

Do you handle Section 21 / lock issues?

The locksmith side, yes. Where there’s a legal dispute over occupancy, we won’t change locks without a clear right to do so — usually evidenced by a Section 8 / Section 21 timeline or a court order. Speak to your solicitor first.

Can you fit door closers and panic bars on commercial premises?

Yes — DDA-compliant door closers, panic bars on fire escapes, push pads and similar. Commercial fire-door hardware is a regular part of what we do.

Do you do master key suites for offices?

Yes — and we keep a record of the suite so you can add new keys or re-pin cylinders later.

About us & service area

Who runs the business?

Alan and his brother. Family-run, no call centre, no commission-paid subcontractors. When you ring, you talk to one of us. When the van arrives, one of us is in it.

Are you DBS-checked?

Yes — both of us, current. Certificates available on request.

What qualifications do you have?

NCFE Level 3 in Locksmithing, plus ongoing training on new lock standards and brands. We keep up with what’s on the market and what’s failing.

Are you insured?

Yes — full public liability insurance. Documentation available on request.

Where are you based?

Sherinngham, Norfolk. But mobility means we could be anywhere in Norfolk when you ring.

Do you cover all of Norfolk?

Yes, 24/7. Drive times vary — see our area pages for honest typical drive times to each town. Some places are 25 minutes, some are over an hour. We’ll always tell you what we’re looking at when you call.

Are you a member of a trade body?

We’re not currently MLA members — that’s something we’re looking at — but we operate to MLA standards and our work is independently insured.

How long have you been trading?

A number of years now. Alan’s been in the trade longest. Combined experience covers everything from period-property timber to modern smart locks.

Why family-run rather than a national chain?

Because the national chains in this trade have a poor reputation for arrival-fee bait-and-switch. We turn up, we do the job, we charge what we quoted, we go home. Simple.

How do I book you?

Ring 07846 643176. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. If we don’t answer immediately (because we’re under a door with our hands full), leave a message and we’ll ring back as soon as we’re free.

Auto locksmith — car keys & fob programming

Do you do car keys?

Yes — we’re a mobile auto locksmith covering all of Norfolk. That means cutting and programming replacement car keys at the roadside, the driveway, or wherever the car is. We work on most mainstream makes — Ford, Vauxhall, Renault, Peugeot, Citroën, Nissan, Kia, Hyundai, Mazda, Toyota, Honda, Volkswagen group (VW, Audi, Skoda, SEAT), Mercedes, BMW and Mini, Land Rover and Jaguar — and we’ll always tell you upfront if your specific make and model is one we can do or whether a main dealer is the better route. We bring the cutting kit, the transponder programmer and the diagnostic tools to you. For most cars we’ll have you driving again the same visit.

What is transponder programming?

Almost every car built since around 1996 has an immobiliser — a small chip in the key (the “transponder”) that the car has to recognise before it will start. Cutting a key to fit the door and ignition isn’t enough; the chip has to be electronically paired to the engine management. That’s transponder programming — we plug into the car’s diagnostic port, talk to the immobiliser module, and register the new key. Without this step you’ll get the key in, turn it, and the car simply won’t start.

Can you program a key fob with central locking?

Yes — fob programming is the second half of the same job. The remote buttons on a flip key or proximity fob talk to the car’s body control module on a rolling code. We register the new fob so the locking, unlocking and (where fitted) boot release all work. Same visit, same call-out.

I’ve lost all my car keys — can you still help?

Yes — “all keys lost” jobs are part of what an auto locksmith does. Without an existing working key the procedure takes longer and the price reflects that — typically we’ll need to read the key code from the lock or the immobiliser, cut a fresh blade and pair a brand-new transponder from scratch. Bring the V5C and photo ID; we’ll verify ownership before we start.

My car key snapped in the ignition — what now?

Don’t try to drive it out with pliers — you’ll usually push the broken half deeper and damage the ignition barrel. Ring us; we extract the snapped half non-destructively, cut you a fresh blade and re-pair the transponder. Most snapped car-key extractions are sorted in a single roadside visit.

Can you do keyless / proximity fobs?

For most makes, yes. Keyless-go systems (where the fob stays in your pocket and the car detects it) need the same diagnostic-port pairing as a traditional fob — just a different programming sequence. Some of the very newest premium models lock down the programming to dealer-only tooling; we’ll tell you on the phone whether yours is in that bracket before we set off.

What about vans?

Vans are bread and butter for a Norfolk auto locksmith — Transit, Vivaro, Trafic, Boxer, Sprinter, Crafter, Transporter. Tradespeople can’t afford a day off waiting for a dealer slot, so we prioritise getting you cut and programmed on site, same day where possible.

Do I need to bring the car to you?

No — we come to wherever the car is. Driveway, supermarket car park, layby, customer’s yard, it doesn’t matter. As long as we can park safely alongside, we can work on it.

CCTV & alarm advice

Do you fit CCTV and alarms?

No — we’re locksmiths, not security electricians, and CCTV/alarm installation is its own discipline (cabling, networking, certification, compliance). What we will do, freely, is talk through how your locks, doors and CCTV/alarm setup work together as one layered system, and point you towards a reputable local installer if you don’t already have one. The conversation is part of any visit.

Where should I put cameras?

The principle most installers go by: cover every point an intruder could enter or pass through. In practice that’s the front door, the back door (often the most attacked door on a Norfolk house), any side gates, the driveway (number-plate capture if possible) and any blind spot like a garden shed or outhouse. One camera covering the front lawn is not a CCTV system; four cameras covering every approach is.

Will CCTV stop a burglar?

It deters the opportunist and helps the police identify the determined one — but cameras don’t physically stop entry. The lock does that. Layered security is the right model: visible cameras and alarm boxes as deterrent, BS3621 / TS 007 3-star / SS 312 Diamond locks doing the actual physical job, and good outdoor lighting making the whole approach less attractive after dark.

What kind of alarm should I get?

Two broad routes: a self-monitored smart alarm that pushes to your phone (Ring, SimpliSafe, Yale Sync — straightforward DIY/light-install), or a professionally monitored bells-and-keypad system installed and maintained by an SSAIB or NSI-accredited installer. The professional route costs more annually but gives you keyholder response and, in some cases, a police URN. For most Norfolk homes the smart-alarm route is more than enough — for shops, holiday lets and isolated rural properties the professional route is often worth the extra.

Does my insurance want an alarm?

Mainstream home policies rarely require an alarm; they require the lock standards (BS3621 on timber, TS 007 3-star or SS 312 Diamond on uPVC). If your insurer has specifically asked for one — usually because of postcode risk, valuables sums insured over a threshold, or a previous claim — they’ll spell it out in your schedule, including whether it needs to be NSI/SSAIB-installed. Always read the schedule rather than rely on the general policy wording.

Will good locks make CCTV pointless?

No — they work as a pair. Locks resist the attack; CCTV records who tried and provides evidence. Either one alone is half a system. If a budget choice has to be made, upgrade the locks first — that’s the layer that physically keeps people out.

Council estate & housing association tenants

I’m a council tenant — am I allowed to change my locks?

Generally yes, but read your tenancy agreement first. Most Norfolk councils and housing associations allow tenants to change locks at their own cost, on the condition that a working set of keys is provided to the landlord on request (so they can carry out repairs or respond to an emergency). The lock has to be returned to original or to an agreed replacement at the end of the tenancy. If you change the lock without telling them, you may be liable for the cost of a forced entry if they need access.

Can my landlord come into my flat with their own key?

For routine visits no — they have to give written notice (typically 24 hours) and visit at a reasonable time. For genuine emergencies (gas leak, fire, flooding, welfare concern) they can enter without notice. The tenancy doesn’t give blanket access — but it does usually require you to give them a key for emergencies.

My landlord won’t change a broken lock — what can I do?

Report it in writing (text, email or the housing-association portal) and keep the record. Repairs to lock and door mechanisms on a final-exit door are usually the landlord’s responsibility under the Landlord and Tenant Act 1985 — locks are part of keeping the property safe and secure. If they don’t respond, escalate to the council’s housing standards team or, for housing associations, the Housing Ombudsman. In a genuine security emergency you can change the lock yourself and recover reasonable costs — keep the receipt and put the request in writing first.

I’ve been threatened by an ex — can I change the locks?

Yes. Where you have grounds to believe an ex-partner, former housemate or anyone else has keys and you don’t want them coming in, you’re within your rights to change the locks — even in social housing. Tell your landlord in writing as soon as you’ve done it (same day) and pass them a new key for the records. If there’s a court order, an injunction, or police involvement, mention that — most landlords will waive any “return to original” clause on safety grounds. We treat these calls with discretion; it’s a routine visit for us.

The locks were broken in a break-in — does the council pay?

Usually yes, on social tenancies — a forced entry by a burglar (or by the police gaining access for a welfare check) is a security failure the landlord is responsible for repairing. Get a crime number from the police, report it to the housing officer the same day, and ask them whether they want their own contractor or whether you should book a locksmith and claim back. Most will arrange their own; some will reimburse a reasonable invoice. Don’t leave the door insecure overnight — book the repair and sort the paperwork after.

I share a stair / communal door — can I change that lock?

No — communal doors in blocks of flats and HMOs are the landlord’s responsibility and you can’t change the lock unilaterally because every other tenant relies on it. If the communal lock is broken, report it. We’ll quote the landlord directly if they ask, or fit a like-for-like replacement on their instruction.

Family-run reassurance & DBS

Why does DBS-checked matter for a locksmith?

A locksmith comes into your home, often in vulnerable moments — a lockout at midnight, a break-in the morning after, an elderly relative who can’t find their keys. A Disclosure and Barring Service (DBS) check is the standard way the trade demonstrates the locksmith has no relevant criminal record. It’s not a legal requirement but it’s a sensible bar — and one we’re both clear on. Certificates available on request.

How does “family-run” actually change the service?

Practically: the person who answers the phone is the same person who turns up at your door — no call centre, no dispatched-from-Birmingham subcontractor, no commission paid to whoever bids lowest on a leads platform. The price quoted on the call is the price paid. The follow-up call if something goes sideways is to the same number you originally rang. That’s the difference; the rest is presentation.

Are both of you fully trained?

Yes — both Alan and his brother hold the NCFE Level 3 Locksmithing qualification and keep up with ongoing training on new lock standards (TS 007 revisions, SS 312 Diamond, the latest uPVC multipoint gearboxes) and auto-locksmith systems as they come out. Locksmithing is a trade that changes every few years; standing still isn’t an option.

Do you carry ID on the job?

Yes — photo ID, branded vehicle, branded uniform. If you’d feel safer checking us out before letting us in, ring back on the published number (07846 643176) and we’ll confirm it’s us at the door. We’d rather wait an extra minute than have you feel uneasy.

Arrival times across Norfolk

How quickly can you get to me in Holt / Briston?

We’re based in Briston, between Holt and Reepham — typically within ten minutes of Holt itself in normal conditions. The closer to base, the faster we’re with you; for Holt and the immediate surrounding villages it’s usually the fastest response we offer anywhere in Norfolk.

What about Cromer or Sheringham?

Cromer and Sheringham are typically 20–25 minutes from Briston in normal traffic — slightly longer in the height of summer when the A148 fills up with day-trippers. Outside peak holiday weeks it’s a quick, predictable run.

Aylsham, Fakenham, North Walsham?

Aylsham is typically 15–20 minutes; Fakenham 20–25 minutes; North Walsham 25–30 minutes. All three are well inside our core catchment and we cover them daily.

Norwich, Wymondham, Wroxham?

Norwich is typically 35–45 minutes from Briston; Wymondham 50–60 minutes; Wroxham and Hoveton 30–35 minutes. We do all three regularly, day and night. For genuine emergencies in central Norwich at peak times, it’s fair to say a Norwich-based locksmith may get there sooner — we’ll always be honest about that on the call.

King’s Lynn, Great Yarmouth, Diss?

These are the outer edges of our coverage — typically 50–60 minutes for King’s Lynn and Great Yarmouth, and over an hour for Diss. We’ll come — particularly on quieter night runs when the drive is faster — but if you’re locked out with a child or a pet in genuine distress, we’ll tell you frankly if a closer locksmith would be the better choice for that specific call. Honesty over the booking.

Why no blanket “30-minute response” promise?

Because Norfolk is a big rural county and we won’t promise something we can’t deliver. A 30-minute promise is meaningless from Briston to Great Yarmouth at any speed. What we promise instead: a clear, honest ETA on the call before we set off, and a phone update if traffic turns out worse than expected.

Related services

24/7 emergency locksmith — covering Norfolk
Call 07846 643176