Which lock have I got?

Can you see your lock? Do you know what type of lock you have? Is it secure? Is it insurance standard? – All are important questions to look at your home security.

This weekend, I found myself walking through the high street of a Norfolk coastal village. One that is much quieter in winter because most of the homes are holiday lets. My wife, who is usually bored by my lock information, has obviously been taking in a lot more than she cares to admit, because she pointed to a door and told me it was not insurance rated. She was correct. This prompted me to look at all the other doors we passed and I soon discovered the majority of houses in that street would not receive insurance pay outs if they were burgled. On top of that, many would have been extremely easy for the burglar to gain access to.

So here is another visual guide to what makes you a burglar’s target, and what makes him look elsewhere.

If you have a door with one of these Horizontal sashlocks;

Sashlockthen beware! Most of these in Norfolk at least are three lever locks. If this is the only lock on your door, the burglar might just have a go because they have short bolts, no anti-drill reinforcement and are usually quite old. The five lever versions are very strong, but equally very expensive and require more holes in the door. Having a five lever deadlock fitted as primary security is the cheapest option that will satisfy the insurance people.

If I see a door with handles like the one in this image below,

Door handle
then I have no clue as to the strength of the lock fitted into the door as the mechanism is essentially hidden when shut. While your insurance is still going to demand a five lever version of this sashlock, the burglar is less likely to waste time on this unless he knows what is in your house and is specifically going after it.

 

Yale lockNow, if you have a lock like this as your only security, then get it looked at right now. This is the nightlatch (often called a “Yale” lock) and will probably take seconds to bypass. Seriously, I could walk up to one of these and be in so fast, a passerby wouldn’t even notice I didn’t use a key. There are some that have handy little additions to slow the burglar down, but mostly it is so easy, the burglar has nothing to lose when attacking this type of lock. The outside of the British Standard version of this type of lock looks like this.


Nightlatch

When I am faced with this type of nightlatch as a locksmith, I know I’m going to be earning every penny of my fee and there is probably going to be sweating and cursing going on before that door is open. The burglar is simply going somewhere else. Again, these are more expensive than their basic cousins, but they do have many features to make life harder for the intruder.

 

UPVC door

Next, we have the upvc door;










Or composite doors;

Composite door

These doors are supposed to be super secure. After all, they have all those extra hooks and bolts and rollers that engage when the handle is lifted. But the door is only as good  as the lock, and the standard locks are not very good.

                                               standard lock

Here is the standard lock,









Snapped lock cylinder

And here is what happens with cylinder snapping.

So, while these locks are still acceptable by your insurance provider, they will not deter the burglar. 





Kite marked lock
To do that, you need a cylinder like this one;
From a distance, the intruder can see the lock is not standard. If he does get close, he will see the kite mark. These locks are reinforced where the standard ones are weak, and actually designed to break closer to the front, meaning the attacker still cannot get to the bits he wants to.





Finally, if you have any version of a rim lock which will be in a similar style to this,

Rim lock









as your only door security, then you need something else as well. I find these on many farm houses and older buildings. They are very poor for stopping the burglars and easy to spot from the outside because they look like the horizontal locks but the key hole is usually lower or higher than the knob handle, so the intruder can identify them with ease.

There are many variations to all the types of lock mentioned above and this information is for guidance only. If you feel your security is not adequate, then ask your local locksmith for a security check. If he/she is any good, they will provide this service for free. Please also check elderly friends and relatives. I often visit older people who have lived with the same locks since before British Standard kite marks were even thought of. By talking to them about their security, you just might be saving them from an intruder.

Should you have any questions about the information above, please feel free to get in touch via any of the ways on my contacts page.

Thanks for reading.


Different Locks Explained Part 2

The mortice lock (sometimes spelt mortise) and often referred to as a ‘Chubb’ lock.

When your home insurance talks about 5 lever locks, it is referring to this type of lock and not the multi-point locking system of the type found on upvc type doors.You can have two main types of mortice lock.

This is the deadlock;   
IMAG0795 (2)
 













And this is the sash lock – essentially a deadlock with retractable latch;

IMAG0796 (2)




The two pictures are 5 lever mortice locks and made to British Standard 3621 quality. The following pictures show what makes them such high quality:


IMAG0797The black layers you can see in between the hard steel plates, is designed to snag hack-saws, stopping any potential attack where a wide gap between the door and frame might allow for this to happen. The bolt itself comes out a long way to ensure anyone attempting to ‘pop’ the door with a crowbar is in for a serious struggle. In burglaries I have attended where the door has been opened with a crowbar, the wood of the door has split rather than the lock breaking. That is because the keep that sits in the door frame is a solid construction as well. Two and three lever mortice locks have a much smaller bolt and usually, the keep is just a thin piece of metal that goes over holes cut into the wood.


A five lever mortice lock keep looks like this:
IMAG0804
It will be made of a thick hard plate metal and secured with four deep set screws.Two and three lever mortice locks can be picked relatively easily, because tools can be inserted up into the lock from the key hole from where the burglar can manipulate the levers.

On a BS3621 5 lever mortice lock, that method of attack is made all the harder by the anti-pick curtain, shown here:  

IMAG0801
This round bit is the part you put your key into and stops any manipulation of the levers above.






You can see it again in this next picture which also shows the hardened steel plate that stops standard drills making any holes where burglars need them to move the levers and therefore open the lock.IMAG0799 (4)

















Levers

Now, onto the levers themselves. Because this is a 5 lever lock, there are obviously five of them. That means trying to pick one of these (if the burglar is willing to spend the time trying to get past the anti-pick curtain), is really difficult. There is a technique, but it requires holding just the right pressure as you do each lever in turn. If you make it to the fifth one, you are either very determined, or very lucky. These levers also have anti-pick traps, which in some cases, will render the lock completely unusable. Certain brands wear very easily and poorly cut copied keys can set these traps off, so make sure the person cutting any extra keys uses ones that have the brand name on them and has plenty of experience.
Here are the levers:
IMAG0802 (4)








If you just don’t know whether or not your locks are up to standard, there is one way to ensure it meets the necessary standards. It should display the British Standard Kite Mark like this:
IMAG0803














Now this piece only covers the basic mortice locks. There are other mortice locks which are in a bit of a grey area. For example, horizontal mortice locks which have the key hole and usually a knob on a side by side set up rather than a lever handle above the key hole. If you have one of these, the chances are it is a 3 lever lock and not insurance compliant as a standalone lock. There are 5 lever versions but these are expensive and do not always work with older doors. You can also have narrow fit mortice locks for doors that do not have much space into which a lock will fit. Non-standard 5 lever mortice locks do not carry BS3621 kite marks, but often satisfy insurance companies if they are made aware of the circumstances in which they have been fitted.

If you have any doubts at all, contact your local locksmith who can either advise on your best course of action, and may be prepared to word a letter to your insurance company explaining unusual circumstances. Remember even if the burglar gets in through a door that has the appropriate lock on it, some insurance companies will refuse to pay out if any one of your other locks is not up to standard.

If you require any more information regarding the locks mentioned above, please do not hesitate to contact me using any of the methods on my contacts page. If there are any other locksmith related topics you would like me to cover, please either leave a comment or drop me an email, my address can be found on the contacts page.

Thanks for reading.

Different Locks Explained

There are many different types of lock, some are insurance standard – some are not. In my blog I want to look at the pros and cons of the different locks. Part one is the Nightlatch lock.

1. The Nightlatch:

The Nightlatch lock is often referred to as a ‘Yale’ type lock. Here, I am going to look at some examples and explain the pros and cons of these locks.
Night Latch Standard Width Door

This is the most basic nightlatch. The key or the knob rotate to withdraw the curved latch. The small snib pushed up or down (depending on brand and side of door lock is mounted on) holds the latch either in or out. When the snib is activated the knob and key will not operate.

The part that the key goes into is called a ‘Rim Cylinder’ and can be bought as a separate part. This means if you lose your key, the locking part can be purchased quite cheaply without having to buy the whole lot. They are also easy for the amateur to fit as well, especially if there is already a hole for the rim cylinder to fit into as this passes from the front to the back of the door and into the back of the nightlatch itself.

The downsides to this lock are that as it is cheap, it doesn’t always last very long. If the snib is not activated, a burglar can bypass this lock in seconds. It is possible to accidentally knock the snib as you leave the house and because the latch will retract just a little bit, if you slam your door, you can now be locked out with the key being useless to you. Getting in from this position involves complete destruction of the lock and possible damage to your door. This lock carries no British Standard rating and therefore on its own will invalidate your insurance. Even if the burglar enters through a different opening, having this lock as your only lock on a final exit door will stop the insurance company paying out.

While I see this as a main lock on far too many occasions, I would only use it on internal doors like B&B rooms or if you rent a holiday home and you need to keep some rooms unused, etc.

It can be used on main doors, but there should always be another lock as well, preferably one that is British Standard 3621 with a kite mark.

This is the next level of nightlatch:

This one is a bit more robust than the one before. It’s fitting is slightly more complicated and more tools are required to fit it into place. It operates the same as well. But you can get these in a deadlocking version. That means, if you turn the key an extra turn, the latch is held in place just as the snib would do on the inside. On this example, the snib is black. While this deadlocking action gives slightly more security than the cheaper nightlatch, it does throw up its own problems, because now, if you accidentally rotate the key to the deadlocked position, step inside and slam the door, you will be locked in. The inside lever will not turn enough to free you. You will have to exit from another door or window, and unlock it again from the outside. This, of course is dangerous if you only have one door and fire breaks out.

Again, this lock is not rated to BS3621 and therefore not adequate security on its own.

Finally, the BS3621 Nightlatch:

This one really does the trick. The Rim cylinder is now protected against drilling. The latch comes out further and protects itself against a burglary method called “slipping.” Because the snib is a push button, you cannot accidentally lock yourself in or out as you could with the previous two locks. And because it carries the kitemark, it will satisfy most insurers as a stand alone lock without the need for others. While this is still possible to fit yourself, it can be fiddly and if not done properly, the automatic deadlocking feature will not work. In the image you will notice that there is a key hole on the lever. If you lock the lever in place, a burglar who has entered through another opening wil not be able to open this door and escape with all the stuff he is carrying. However, in the event of a fire, you must be sure where your keys are. There are versions that do not have this locking handle that still conform to BS3621.

Part 2 – coming soon, will be Euro Cylinders & Part 3 Mortice locks.

Should you have any questions regarding the locks above, please get in touch through my contacts page.

Thanks for reading.